Orange,
Vaucluse La Belle Provence
Friday 21st September
A late breakfast for us today as we slept in much later than usual. We must have needed the rest.
A choice today of corn flakes, orange or grapefruit juice, sliced baquette, boiled eggs, jams, marmalades and coffee or tea. Not a croissant in sight! It had been a long time since I had my cereal so I tucked in.
As we thought Orange had a lot to offer we arranged to stay another night before we left for the day’s exploration.
We walked into town stopping off at the tourist bureau to pick up the usual maps, guides etc that we find indispensable.
First stop the Theatre Antique d’Orange. This theatre is renowned for being in an exceptional good state of preservation. As we made our way up to buy our tickets Beatrice alerted me to all the legionnaires that were lining up ready to march off into the town centre around the corner. Shouts of marching orders, the band struck up and I was off down the street to take some photos. We had come across on what we believe was the passing out parade of the latest recruits from the barracks situated in the town. Truly quite spectacular, took many photos and positioned my self behind the officers taking the salute. Eyes right, arms presented, it was as though it was all for me. Perhaps a little cheeky when I think about it as I was almost standing in-between the officers on the parade steps. Lots of locals and tourists all gathered on the pavements as each squad passed by giving their salute. Red epaulettes bayonets and wearing Kepis of all colors, white, black, some trimmed with red all sorts of variations, with the generals being black with gold leaf clusters emblazoned on the sides of theirs. Bob, we really wanted to go up and ask one of them if they would give us their hat, but we restrained ourselves. It all then broke up into a display of armoured tanks, weaponary and activities for the kids to take part in. Developing into some sort of young recruitment drive I suppose. The band assembled once again on the parade ground and played some lively tunes many of which were typical of all marching bands. Beatrice dragged me away, as I was becoming quite engrossed in it all. We had tourist sites to visit and plenty of walking to do. However it had been a great bonus seeing the Legionnaires, which comprised of men of all sorts of skin colours and features. Beatrice told me that anyone could join the French Foreign Legion. Maybe she was giving me a hint of some kind. Anyhow I didn’t think my French was good enough for that!
Back to the The Roman Theatre.
We purchased our tickets and picked up our audio guides and notes. First stop we watched a short film recreating the past glory of the theatre and how now since 1972 it is being used in the summer months as a great Opera location being highly regarded for its acoustics. This operatic festival is held in July and the beginning of August each year. It all looked fabulous on the film and made me want to get tickets for the season next year. Pity I’ll be 10 thousand odd miles away by then.
This Theatre is amazing and is known to be one of the best roman buildings left in a great state of preservation. It had however been through many narrow escapes since it was built in the 1st century AD. It all fell over when the roman civilisation became very decadent, with bawdy performances, nudity and cruelty by 500AD. The Christians were rising up about it all and when the then Roman emperor converted to a Christian and declared it as the religion for the people, these theatres, temples, bath houses and all the great building the Romans had constructed over its 1000 year reign were progressively set upon and destroyed with people removing stones etc to build their churches, houses and to make roads. Fortunately the theatre at Orange some how managed to escape total destruction and despite it being cleared in the centre and a town being built inside consisting of roads and many houses, which eventually took the authorities over twenty years to evict and clear when they realised what they had and wanted to prevent it from any further deterioration. In the most recent times it was used as a prison during the French revolution with prisoners being kept there in the most appalling conditions.
Situated beside the theatre, are the magnificent ruins of a temple where the Romans would worship their Emperor. Across the road we visited the museum, which houses the history of Art in Orange from the decorative ruins of the Theatre to the décor and paintings from the last four centuries and all this being located in a private house dating back to the 17th Century.
It was then off to view the Triumphal Arch as you come into Orange from the direction of Lyon. The Romans use to follow a route bordered by tombs and then would pass through this monumental Arch. It is dedicated to the glory of the veterans of the 11 Gallic Legion, founders of the Roman colony at Orange. Highly decorated with reliefs depicting arms, trophies and naval victories, which exemplified the might of Rome at that time, on land and at sea. This thankfully had also been saved from destruction over the years and is still quite stunning to see. We walked all day and saw the whole city and agreed that we both liked this place very much.
Conscious getting the better of us we bought some stamps and posted some cards off that we had bought, just in case anyone was wondering where we had been for the last two months.
We walked back to the hotel to freshen up and before making our way back to the old quarter for dinner we watched the locals playing boule. Every town, village, city have gravel pitches (?) for the game. They gestured to us asking if we wanted to take part, we declined, as they were incredible in the way they played. We certainly learnt a few tricks, which we will use when we play again! So watch out (I might have to whisper to Noelene (my partner) the secret of winning at boule)
We found Le Pigola, a restaurant that had all the things we liked, brightly coloured tablecloths, umbrellas, candles and a great choice of food and wine on offer and being able to sit outside in our shirt sleeves, in the warm evening, without being bitten or getting cold. Here we had struck gold as we were in a rugby enclave with France playing Ireland that evening. French flags, banners, tri coloured hats and all the buzz and anticipation of a French victory. We felt the excitement as well; for France had to win tonight otherwise they would have no chance to play in the finals.
We watched the teams come out on the huge screen they had strung up and line up for the anthems. How great it was see nearly everyone stand up and sing the Marseilles at the top of their voices. Everyone one I’m sure, left there very happy that night. As for us we set off back to our motel feeling very happy and contented with life, however missing our daughters and friends. I’m sure we’ll pull through though and it will all be just a memory.
Tomorrow we were going to strike out for home, but not without making a few detours into the French countryside on the way before getting on to the autoroute.
Vaucluse La Belle Provence
Friday 21st September
A late breakfast for us today as we slept in much later than usual. We must have needed the rest.
A choice today of corn flakes, orange or grapefruit juice, sliced baquette, boiled eggs, jams, marmalades and coffee or tea. Not a croissant in sight! It had been a long time since I had my cereal so I tucked in.
As we thought Orange had a lot to offer we arranged to stay another night before we left for the day’s exploration.
We walked into town stopping off at the tourist bureau to pick up the usual maps, guides etc that we find indispensable.
First stop the Theatre Antique d’Orange. This theatre is renowned for being in an exceptional good state of preservation. As we made our way up to buy our tickets Beatrice alerted me to all the legionnaires that were lining up ready to march off into the town centre around the corner. Shouts of marching orders, the band struck up and I was off down the street to take some photos. We had come across on what we believe was the passing out parade of the latest recruits from the barracks situated in the town. Truly quite spectacular, took many photos and positioned my self behind the officers taking the salute. Eyes right, arms presented, it was as though it was all for me. Perhaps a little cheeky when I think about it as I was almost standing in-between the officers on the parade steps. Lots of locals and tourists all gathered on the pavements as each squad passed by giving their salute. Red epaulettes bayonets and wearing Kepis of all colors, white, black, some trimmed with red all sorts of variations, with the generals being black with gold leaf clusters emblazoned on the sides of theirs. Bob, we really wanted to go up and ask one of them if they would give us their hat, but we restrained ourselves. It all then broke up into a display of armoured tanks, weaponary and activities for the kids to take part in. Developing into some sort of young recruitment drive I suppose. The band assembled once again on the parade ground and played some lively tunes many of which were typical of all marching bands. Beatrice dragged me away, as I was becoming quite engrossed in it all. We had tourist sites to visit and plenty of walking to do. However it had been a great bonus seeing the Legionnaires, which comprised of men of all sorts of skin colours and features. Beatrice told me that anyone could join the French Foreign Legion. Maybe she was giving me a hint of some kind. Anyhow I didn’t think my French was good enough for that!
Back to the The Roman Theatre.
We purchased our tickets and picked up our audio guides and notes. First stop we watched a short film recreating the past glory of the theatre and how now since 1972 it is being used in the summer months as a great Opera location being highly regarded for its acoustics. This operatic festival is held in July and the beginning of August each year. It all looked fabulous on the film and made me want to get tickets for the season next year. Pity I’ll be 10 thousand odd miles away by then.
This Theatre is amazing and is known to be one of the best roman buildings left in a great state of preservation. It had however been through many narrow escapes since it was built in the 1st century AD. It all fell over when the roman civilisation became very decadent, with bawdy performances, nudity and cruelty by 500AD. The Christians were rising up about it all and when the then Roman emperor converted to a Christian and declared it as the religion for the people, these theatres, temples, bath houses and all the great building the Romans had constructed over its 1000 year reign were progressively set upon and destroyed with people removing stones etc to build their churches, houses and to make roads. Fortunately the theatre at Orange some how managed to escape total destruction and despite it being cleared in the centre and a town being built inside consisting of roads and many houses, which eventually took the authorities over twenty years to evict and clear when they realised what they had and wanted to prevent it from any further deterioration. In the most recent times it was used as a prison during the French revolution with prisoners being kept there in the most appalling conditions.
Situated beside the theatre, are the magnificent ruins of a temple where the Romans would worship their Emperor. Across the road we visited the museum, which houses the history of Art in Orange from the decorative ruins of the Theatre to the décor and paintings from the last four centuries and all this being located in a private house dating back to the 17th Century.
It was then off to view the Triumphal Arch as you come into Orange from the direction of Lyon. The Romans use to follow a route bordered by tombs and then would pass through this monumental Arch. It is dedicated to the glory of the veterans of the 11 Gallic Legion, founders of the Roman colony at Orange. Highly decorated with reliefs depicting arms, trophies and naval victories, which exemplified the might of Rome at that time, on land and at sea. This thankfully had also been saved from destruction over the years and is still quite stunning to see. We walked all day and saw the whole city and agreed that we both liked this place very much.
Conscious getting the better of us we bought some stamps and posted some cards off that we had bought, just in case anyone was wondering where we had been for the last two months.
We walked back to the hotel to freshen up and before making our way back to the old quarter for dinner we watched the locals playing boule. Every town, village, city have gravel pitches (?) for the game. They gestured to us asking if we wanted to take part, we declined, as they were incredible in the way they played. We certainly learnt a few tricks, which we will use when we play again! So watch out (I might have to whisper to Noelene (my partner) the secret of winning at boule)
We found Le Pigola, a restaurant that had all the things we liked, brightly coloured tablecloths, umbrellas, candles and a great choice of food and wine on offer and being able to sit outside in our shirt sleeves, in the warm evening, without being bitten or getting cold. Here we had struck gold as we were in a rugby enclave with France playing Ireland that evening. French flags, banners, tri coloured hats and all the buzz and anticipation of a French victory. We felt the excitement as well; for France had to win tonight otherwise they would have no chance to play in the finals.
We watched the teams come out on the huge screen they had strung up and line up for the anthems. How great it was see nearly everyone stand up and sing the Marseilles at the top of their voices. Everyone one I’m sure, left there very happy that night. As for us we set off back to our motel feeling very happy and contented with life, however missing our daughters and friends. I’m sure we’ll pull through though and it will all be just a memory.
Tomorrow we were going to strike out for home, but not without making a few detours into the French countryside on the way before getting on to the autoroute.
No comments:
Post a Comment