Arles Wednesday 19th September
Breakfasted paid the bill and drove into Arles, finding that we had to park outside and walk into the walled town. Once again the endless row upon row of motor homes and coaches already there in addition to all the private cars.
Very windy today and much cooler than we like. Arles was first occupied by the Celtic tribes, then by a Greek colony, and became Roman when Julius Caesar gave the colony to the veterans of his legions. From the earliest days of Christianity the city became an important religious centre. It was destroyed and ravaged by invasions during the Middle Ages. It was rebuilt during the 12th Century. Stately homes were built during the 17th and 18th centuries joining the many others with some dating back 2000 years.
We made our way up to the Amphitheatre built around 90 AD; originally it could hold 20,000 people. Today it is used for shows and features bull fights during the season. Following the guided walking tour we braved the cool wind and went on to visit Van Goghs reconstructed home (the original was bombed in the war) in the same location. Walked up to his room recreated as it was and to view the locations where he painted many of his famous and well-known paintings. Then on to the Roman Theatre, late first century, Saint Trophimes Cathedral and outside the former Hospital of Arles where Van Gogh was a patient.
Coffee time we stopped at the Rond Pont Les Arles sitting out of the wind in the warm sunshine. Before leaving we thought we would check out the thermal baths, but found it was closed between 12 and 2pm so they could all be off for their lunch and a nap. We still find this very odd especially with so many tourists in town. However I suppose it drives them all into the restaurants and coffee shops over the two hours.
Left Arles about 2pm having walked all around the walled town. We then had all sorts of problems finding the road we needed and we both felt quite tense about it all. However after some tense moments and almost resorting to some fisticuffs, we eventually found the autoroute we wanted which would take us on to Nice, about two and a half hours away. Heading south we passed turn offs for Marseilles, Toulon, Cannes, St.Tropez all names we know and conjure up all sorts of thoughts. Country side very dry here, very rocky marble looking mountains, some very pointy and reaching great heights, making it look a bit like the wild west in the USA. Houses looking very Mexican, ochre walls and pale blue shutters, they seem to blend into the hills, very yellow soil and small vineyards in some of the valleys.
Drove into Nice at about 5.30 after paying the last toll to enter the city. The road took us right along the beachfront whilst we were keeping our eyes peeled for the tourist bureau. Eventually we managed to find it and pass through the security gates to park the car. They really make it hard for tourists sometimes! Picked up the usual maps and information and booked a hotel room for the night. Just another 6 klms along the same road, very easy to find and very reasonably priced. We just forgot to ask if we would be able to park the car there. With great difficulty we found the Hotel Carnot of course in Rue Carnot. No parking anywhere, in desperation Beatrice jumped out and went up the stairs to ask advice at the reception desk as to where we could park. Anywhere in the old quarter was the answer. No luck we drove around and around, having entered a small supermarket car park by mistake and paying 3 euros to get out again, until we settled on parking at Eglise Notre Dame du Port car park, (the old port car park) where all the luxury yachts were berthed. It was going to cost us a fortune but we had no other choice, as we would still have been driving around Nice now.
We were a few blocks from the hotel room so we put a change of clothes into a carry bag and walked. Checked in and paid for the room. Then up three flights of stairs to find a small room with the bed pushed against the wall a shower closet and a cupboard when opened revealed a toilet and hand basin. Using the toilet you would have to have the doors open and be virtually sitting in the middle of the room. Luckily there was also a normal toilet just along the hallway, which I decided I would use. We washed and immediately set out for a walk into the old quarter, which was close by. A beautiful warm evening 26 degs, we walked through narrow winding cobbled streets, with towering buildings each side, painted either pink, beige, white or ochre, shuttered windows cast iron balconies and way above our heads washing hanging from lines strung across the buildings. Side streets, illuminated with the old fashioned hanging lights and then opening out into squares with restaurants tables all set out under umbrellas and soft coloured lights and candles. Restaurants everywhere most of them looking very appealing and offering something for everybody. It all had a very Italian influence. We settled on one of the most popular places to eat sitting out in the Hotel de Ville Square at La Claire Fontaine. The Italian influence her is not surprising as the Italy borders is only 20 minutes away.Spaghetti for me and Beatrice a salad. A pichet of red wine and we were happy. It was great to be able to sit out late at night in the warmth and without being bitten. We walked back feeling quite safe as we wandered through the side streets to our shoebox of a room. It was going to suit us fine, we opened our shuttered full-length windows and the French doors to get some cool air through the night and were soon fast asleep.
Breakfasted paid the bill and drove into Arles, finding that we had to park outside and walk into the walled town. Once again the endless row upon row of motor homes and coaches already there in addition to all the private cars.
Very windy today and much cooler than we like. Arles was first occupied by the Celtic tribes, then by a Greek colony, and became Roman when Julius Caesar gave the colony to the veterans of his legions. From the earliest days of Christianity the city became an important religious centre. It was destroyed and ravaged by invasions during the Middle Ages. It was rebuilt during the 12th Century. Stately homes were built during the 17th and 18th centuries joining the many others with some dating back 2000 years.
We made our way up to the Amphitheatre built around 90 AD; originally it could hold 20,000 people. Today it is used for shows and features bull fights during the season. Following the guided walking tour we braved the cool wind and went on to visit Van Goghs reconstructed home (the original was bombed in the war) in the same location. Walked up to his room recreated as it was and to view the locations where he painted many of his famous and well-known paintings. Then on to the Roman Theatre, late first century, Saint Trophimes Cathedral and outside the former Hospital of Arles where Van Gogh was a patient.
Coffee time we stopped at the Rond Pont Les Arles sitting out of the wind in the warm sunshine. Before leaving we thought we would check out the thermal baths, but found it was closed between 12 and 2pm so they could all be off for their lunch and a nap. We still find this very odd especially with so many tourists in town. However I suppose it drives them all into the restaurants and coffee shops over the two hours.
Left Arles about 2pm having walked all around the walled town. We then had all sorts of problems finding the road we needed and we both felt quite tense about it all. However after some tense moments and almost resorting to some fisticuffs, we eventually found the autoroute we wanted which would take us on to Nice, about two and a half hours away. Heading south we passed turn offs for Marseilles, Toulon, Cannes, St.Tropez all names we know and conjure up all sorts of thoughts. Country side very dry here, very rocky marble looking mountains, some very pointy and reaching great heights, making it look a bit like the wild west in the USA. Houses looking very Mexican, ochre walls and pale blue shutters, they seem to blend into the hills, very yellow soil and small vineyards in some of the valleys.
Drove into Nice at about 5.30 after paying the last toll to enter the city. The road took us right along the beachfront whilst we were keeping our eyes peeled for the tourist bureau. Eventually we managed to find it and pass through the security gates to park the car. They really make it hard for tourists sometimes! Picked up the usual maps and information and booked a hotel room for the night. Just another 6 klms along the same road, very easy to find and very reasonably priced. We just forgot to ask if we would be able to park the car there. With great difficulty we found the Hotel Carnot of course in Rue Carnot. No parking anywhere, in desperation Beatrice jumped out and went up the stairs to ask advice at the reception desk as to where we could park. Anywhere in the old quarter was the answer. No luck we drove around and around, having entered a small supermarket car park by mistake and paying 3 euros to get out again, until we settled on parking at Eglise Notre Dame du Port car park, (the old port car park) where all the luxury yachts were berthed. It was going to cost us a fortune but we had no other choice, as we would still have been driving around Nice now.
We were a few blocks from the hotel room so we put a change of clothes into a carry bag and walked. Checked in and paid for the room. Then up three flights of stairs to find a small room with the bed pushed against the wall a shower closet and a cupboard when opened revealed a toilet and hand basin. Using the toilet you would have to have the doors open and be virtually sitting in the middle of the room. Luckily there was also a normal toilet just along the hallway, which I decided I would use. We washed and immediately set out for a walk into the old quarter, which was close by. A beautiful warm evening 26 degs, we walked through narrow winding cobbled streets, with towering buildings each side, painted either pink, beige, white or ochre, shuttered windows cast iron balconies and way above our heads washing hanging from lines strung across the buildings. Side streets, illuminated with the old fashioned hanging lights and then opening out into squares with restaurants tables all set out under umbrellas and soft coloured lights and candles. Restaurants everywhere most of them looking very appealing and offering something for everybody. It all had a very Italian influence. We settled on one of the most popular places to eat sitting out in the Hotel de Ville Square at La Claire Fontaine. The Italian influence her is not surprising as the Italy borders is only 20 minutes away.Spaghetti for me and Beatrice a salad. A pichet of red wine and we were happy. It was great to be able to sit out late at night in the warmth and without being bitten. We walked back feeling quite safe as we wandered through the side streets to our shoebox of a room. It was going to suit us fine, we opened our shuttered full-length windows and the French doors to get some cool air through the night and were soon fast asleep.
Nice Cote d'Azur
the route of the perched villages
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